• Tod's RTW Fall 2020

    1 month ago - By WWD

    Tod's first look clearly telegraphed that a new creative director is in place: easy and baggy sea-blue corduroy pants, worn under a mannish beige blazer and azure blouse, a wool scarf casually wound around the neck.
    Walter Chiapponi, who joined the company in October after years working at Bottega Veneta with the brand's former creative director Tomas Maier, said he “wanted to give a soul and a total look to Italian lifestyle.”
    He succeeded, with a collection that had a romantic vein, seen in the mannish gray felt coat delicately embroidered with azure flowers, as well as a Seventies'...
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  • Trussardi RTW Fall 2020

    1 month ago - By WWD

    When she discovered the Trussardi archives, 32-year-old designer Ilenia Durazzi asked herself a simple question: “What would me and my friends want to wear?”
    Durazzi was tasked by the Italian house to create a capsule collection for fall as part of its Beautiful Minds project, taking key Trussardi-style elements and giving them a modern spin. She succeeded: the house's extensive leather archive was transformed into a boyish black peacoat and a chocolate brown sleeveless shirtdress. Durazzi also unearthed never-seen-before Trussardi floral prints and used them on patchwork silk dresses in...
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  • Eleventy RTW Fall 2020

    1 month ago - By WWD

    Eleventy called on an experienced designer, Cristina Ortiz, former creative director of Lanvin, Salvatore Ferragamo and Brioni, to reshape the image of the women's line. Channeling a Seventies vibe, the collection focused on a palette of burnt and rusty tones, which gave an elegant attitude to softly draped dresses, pencil skirts and ribbed knits, worn with coats and capes splashed with traditional sartorial patterns, as well as cozy shearling jackets. A tougher, metropolitan vibe was injected into oversize bombers, sharp-cut suits and revisited kilt skirts.
    WWD Critique: The designer...
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