• Alice + Olivia RTW Fall 2019

    11 days ago - By WWD

    Has Stacey Bendet gone dark? Hardly.
    During her fantastical fall presentation that brought to life a dreamlike, mysterious forest, Bendet noted she aimed to bring a darker, edgier, even sexier mood than what she's shown the past two seasons. Sure, there were tightly sequined or beaded mini dresses that may not have lived in the Alice + Olivia world before, but the overall mood was pure, unabashed eclecticism.
    “The whole theme was fantasia,” she said while taking a break from the paparazzi pit, adding: “We have golden magic mushrooms and crazy rainbow leaves and butterflies! It's really...
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  • Jason Wu Collection RTW Fall 2019

    11 days ago - By WWD

    Who needs a formal runway? Not Jason Wu, who experimented with an alternative format last season and came away pleased with the result. After that low-key presentation, during which he re-branded the luxury tier of his business as Jason Wu Collection, he opted for a variation here - an artful installation in an artist's studio behind his fragrance pop-up store that opened on Mercer Street in celebration of the launch of his second scent, Velvet Rouge. Wu said he wants his presentations to be about “just the clothes, nothing else. I want to fall in love with the craft, and why I got into...
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  • Carolina Herrera RTW Fall 2019

    11 days ago - By WWD

    Wes Gordon's loving a very specific kind of contrast. “It's the idea of grand gestures and dramatic silhouettes, but in a way that's not overdone or overdesigned,” he said during a preview. “I call it minimalist maximalism.”
    That catchphrase perfectly captures Gordon's fall collection for Carolina Herrera, the result of a design process that started with a focus on flowers. “I was thinking that when all the flowers are dormant and sleeping, Herrera is blooming. It's very Chance the Gardener from ‘Being There,'” he said. He began his research not on an Instagram tour of great gardens of the...
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  • Rebecca de Ravenel RTW Fall 2019

    11 days ago - By WWD

    Coming off of a whirlwind, high-pressure spring season as a finalist in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, Rebecca de Ravenel decided to take a step back, reset and really focus on her woman. Instead of dreaming up a fanciful world, like last season's outdoor garden party or fall 2018's whimsical wonder-inspired gallery at the Carlyle Hotel, de Ravenel designed for what she wanted to see and wear.
    “It's about a woman standing on her own two feet,” she stated. Fall included cleaner, sophisticated offerings across more categories: suit sets , savvy houndstooth-print coats that doubled as dresses...
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  • Beaufille RTW Fall 2019

    11 days ago - By WWD

    This season more than any other, sisters Chloé and Parris Gordon seemed focused on highlighting the artistic integrity behind their clothes. They've built their brand on the foundation of harmonious contrasts, which they've proven through modernist silhouettes that are at once tailored and feminine, sensual yet covered up. The contrasts apply in other ways as well, such as being a small brand with global appeal, or considering the unique composition of prints even through mass manufacturing.
    The sisters are artists at heart, so it's understandable that they began designing fall by taking a...
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  • Zimmermann RTW Fall 2019

    11 days ago - By WWD

    Nicky Zimmermann found a new female heroine for fall 2019, an Australian by the name of Nancy Wake, who was a French Resistance fighter during World War II and earned the nickname “White Mouse” because she was so elusive to catch. “I couldn't believe it when I first read about her,” the Down Under designer said after her show. “What all those women did during the war...when you think about it, they didn't have to do it. It was very brave. And she was from Australia!”
    There wasn't anything elusive about Zimmermann's runway assignment: “We wanted to mix toughness with femininity, playing...
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