• Maki Oh RTW Fall 2018

    3 monthes ago - By WWD

    Designer Amaka Osakwe took a playful jab at the press' capacity for error in her fall collection. After a feature came out that made the brand seem lingerie-focused, Osakwe began playing around with ideas of how she would actually make bedroom clothing in a Maki Oh way. It's not a far cry from the narrative she usually crafts for her girl; last year, it was tailored around what she would wear heading to a late-night casual encounter.
    Her watchwords this time were “lazy sensual.” It described the inherent sexiness of a sheer white lace dress and metallic cami top, but was just as applicable...
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  • Marchesa RTW Fall 2018

    3 monthes ago - By WWD

    Earth to Marchesa ladies: You may or may not be able to, at some point in the future, return to a state of business as usual. You will absolutely not be able to do so without addressing Harvey Weinstein.
    It seems impossible that Georgina Chapman, Weinstein's soon-to-be-ex wife, and her partner in Marchesa, Keren Craig, could think that they can wait it out, that however many seasons down the road, all will be as before, at least in terms of running their business. But apparently, they do. On Wednesday afternoon, the designers repeated their approach to pre-fall, sending out a fall look...
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  • Lela Rose RTW Fall 2018

    3 monthes ago - By WWD

    Along with many other designers this season, Lela Rose experimented with a different presentation format for fall. For press, she previewed the collection during the look book shoot. To the world, she harnessed the power of social media and teased one look per hour over 10 hours styled on 10 of her favorite influencers. The reaction has been positive and has also given people an understanding of how the clothes live in real-world settings.
    She injected a Forties and Fifties vibe into the lineup with nipped waists, peplum shapes and a polished sense of boudoir. It's no secret Rose is an...
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  • Robert Rodriguez RTW Fall 2018

    3 monthes ago - By WWD

    Robert Rodriguez is a designer who always manages to balance the masculine and feminine. He did the same for fall, while incorporating many more colors and bold Eighties references. From a full-on red leopard print suit to graphic neon knits, the inspiration couldn't be clearer. The looks were paired with updates on classic Rodriguez utilitarian and mannish shapes, with hints of lace, studs and even ostrich feathers, which felt approachable and realistic. For instance, there was a great bright blue quilted coat worn with tapered leather trousers and a lace bodysuit or superfun lime green...
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  • Vivienne Tam RTW Fall 2018

    3 monthes ago - By WWD

    For the fall season, Vivienne Tam aimed to design a collection around a “spiritual journey” to the Himalayas, referencing both inner peace and its rich culture. The circular mandala print was a reference to that inspiration that appeared throughout the collection, like on a puffy jacket or embroidered onto hoodies.
    Colors and textures were rich and oh so abundant. An emphasis on reworked garments and fabric blocking was also a large part of the collection. Tam piled a variety of great, chunky outerwear ranging from reworked corduroy and nylon bombers to shearling parkas over her pleated...
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  • Esteban Cortazar RTW Fall 2018

    3 monthes ago - By WWD

    In 2002, Esteban Cortazar launched his namesake label in New York, but for the past 12 years has been based out of, and shown, in Paris. For his fall collection,”I'd been toying a lot with the idea of celebrating the different cities where I've grown, where I've nurtured my brand,” the Peruvian-born designer explained. That notion is what inspired his return to NYFW. In particular, his fall line was a love letter to South America. “A tapestry of different ideas, different experiences,” he said backstage of the many ideas that went into the collection.
    Cortazar said wool and cashmere blend...
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  • Cynthia Rowley RTW Fall 2018

    3 monthes ago - By WWD

    “I was thinking about how if you're in any creative discipline, the greatest reward is to have an idea and have the ability to execute it in totality. So on a daily basis, that's what we try to do here,” said Cynthia Rowley during her fall collection appointment. For Rowley, this meant designing an eclectic lineup of kitschy, fun pieces mashed up with easygoing brand classics.
    There wasn't a cohesive theme, but there didn't really need to be one, either. Rowley designed pieces her customer will likely eat up, ranging from classic black-and-white striped or floral daydresses to bejeweled...
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  • Rhié RTW Fall 2018

    3 monthes ago - By WWD

    Rhié Yamagata showed her fall collection out of her darling garden-level shop that opened a year ago on West 11th Street and Bleecker in the West Village, where she gets a surprising amount of foot traffic for a store that is hidden below street level. “We've gotten to know so many people in the neighborhood and tourists hanging out in the West Village,” she said. “It's an interesting crowd in the area, and people walking past like to feel like they're discovering something that's a little nook.”
    Her clothes also feel like a unique find. The fall lineup was a small mix of pieces that...
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