• Fendi: Ready-to-wear AW20

    1 month ago - By 10 magazine

    It was hard and soft, feminine but powerful. The Fendi show, now designed by Silvia Venturini played with dualities at every level, from materials to sexual politics. The familiar tropes of feminine dressing: pink, lingerie, boudoir satin, were re-cast through a feminist eye, by a female designer who comes from a family of strong, pioneering women.
    If anyone knows about female power it's Ms Fendi. Executive coats were pleated at the waist to mimic corsetry, boudoir satins quilted into fierce curving forties-style silhouettes. There were some memorable leather moments including a...
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  • Prada: Ready-to-wear AW20

    Prada: Ready-to-wear AW20

    1 month ago - By 10 magazine

    We were ringside at the gallery, peering down on something intriguing. The Prada show happened in a submerged, cloistered pit designed by AMO, part of Rem Koolhaas' architecture firm, on a set that was first seen at the menswear show in January. A flat packed wooden monument mounted on a plinth formed a strange centrepiece for a show that Prada-fied classic pieces. Mrs Prada has spent her career fetishising skirts. This show took that obsession with the most feminine wardrobe icon to the next level. The opening look featured a skirt made from shiny black fringing that looked like human...
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  • Moschino: Ready-to-Wear AW20

    Moschino: Ready-to-Wear AW20

    1 month ago - By 10 magazine

    “It's Marie Anime-toinette” said Jeremy Scott of his Moschino show. What a historical romp! “I was playing with this whole idea of a time machine,” he explained. Scott took the historic farthingale of the 1780s but re-did it as a micro mini of the 1960s. He also cross-pollinated 18th century courtly glamour with Moschino's house icons. The results were brilliantly witty and wild. How about a panniered black leather biker-style mini dress worn with thigh high satin Louis heeled boots? Or a logo hoodie that stretched high enough to cover the model's pompadour wig. Scott's signature wit was a...
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