• Iceberg RTW Fall 2020

    1 month ago - By WWD

    Streetwear met mountain sportswear in James Long's fall collection. Cocoon puffers were juxtaposed to cozy knitwear, including turtleneck sweaters showing macro argyle motifs. Quilting appeared on the puffy sleeves of tops worn with plisse skirts, while a grunge feel was injected into maxi cardigans worn with T-shirts and maxi lace skirts. In keeping with the brand's signature use of cartoon graphics, this season Long employed images of The Jetsons, which put the focus on the futuristic feel infused in some of the metallic attires.
    WWD Critique: Following last season's neon extravaganza...
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  • Etro RTW Fall 2020

    1 month ago - By WWD

    The Etros are bundling up, and saddling up, for fall, whipping blankets into fringed coats and shawls, working warm woolen checks and plaids into tailored pieces and taking style cues from Argentina's gauchos.
    Last month, Kean Etro sent out his wooly layers and paisleys in the brand's men's wear show, and his sister Veronica Etro led those trends into women's territory, adding flashes of gold thread, silver studded leather and cashmere.
    “I was into coziness, everything that wraps and protects. So a lot of knitwear, a lot of capes and warmth, loose fabrics. And then, at the same time, a lot...
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  • La Double J RTW Fall 2020

    1 month ago - By WWD

    “We should make stuff to get excited about, otherwise why are we buying new clothes,” pondered JJ Martin at the presentation of her fall collection for La Double J. Joyful dove prints swooped on silk dresses and boxy wool coats inspired by collages created by artist Claire Johnson for the collection, and embroidered crystals glittered on amazing footwear crafted out of Birkenstocks - a collaboration that is just begging to happen.
    For the first time since the creation of the brand five years ago, half of the collection featured prints conceived in-house in addition to its usual vintage...
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  • Emporio Armani RTW Fall 2020

    1 month ago - By WWD

    Giorgio Armani doesn't really do trends; he created a look, and sometimes fashion cycles back around to it. This is one of those times when, with everyone from Michael Kors to Marc Jacobs talking about the classics, his fluid tailoring has new fashion currency.
    But he, like the rest of the industry, does evolve. So, on the subject of circularity, he started the fall women's season with an R-EA capsule line that used regenerated wool, organic cotton and recycled nylon and padding in the name of sustainability. A mixed black wool and quilted nylon puffer coat with white X across the front...
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  • Sportmax RTW Fall 2020

    1 month ago - By WWD

    The futuristic theme is a trend this season, and it's a tricky one. Sportmax took the challenge with mixed results. Inspired by tailoring constructions, the collection kicked off on an essential, restrained note with sharp-cut outerwear pieces, including a belted coat with bold sleeves and a graphic peacoat, juxtaposed with cozy knits and slick separates. The mannish attitude of a denim suit contrasted with the feminine fluidity of a dress embellished with both a jacquard bib detail and a metallic belt putting the focus on the waist.
    WWD Critique: While the daywear, a bit stiff, looked...
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